Fairings, Brakes and Switches

I have not been posting much in the last few months. The reason is that The Diva and I have more or less settled down to a peaceful and relatively trouble free existence. I guess, most of the problems have been ironed out and the bike has been running reliably.

Left Hand Switch Cluster

One of the more irritating issues with the bike was the intermittent headlight. This was traced to basically 2 items. The left hand cluster’s dipped and high beam rocker switch has worn out and the triangular part has cracked. After a few repairs, I finally gave in and bought a new one.

The new left switch cluster. Now my bike has a high beam pass switch. Nice!
The new left switch cluster. Now my bike has a high beam pass switch. Nice!

The offending part from the old switch is shown below:

Switch Tab Epoxied
Switch Tab Epoxied

The 2nd item was the yellow connectors on the right side of the fairing – one from the left hand switch cluster and the other connecting to the rest of the bike. These were not weather proofed and corrosion had taken its toil. The left hand cluster gave me a new connector and I filled it up with the Silicon Dielectric grease to give it some anti-corrosion protection. The grease also went into all the connectors on the right side. Lastly, I also taped them up and zipped tied them properly to reduce movement. Fingers crossed, but it seemed to have worked.


I have fitted EBC brake pads to the front calipers and boy, do they make a difference. The braking is stronger than my last set of organic pads (Ferodo).

I also noticed a quirk about the brakes. My habit is to brake with 2 fingers. In the morning, I notice that the end of the lever will come to the other 2 fingers on the grip. However, after pulling the levers a few times, the brakes firm up and the lever does not touch the fingers. I realised that when the brakes are at rest, the pistons will withdraw more into the calliper bodies. It is not due to old brake fluid as I have changed it many times.

Before I realised what the problem was, I actually bought a used Brembo RCS19 master brake pump for the bike thinking to solve this problem. At a trial fix, I found that it touched the speedometer at full left lock and needed new 90 degrees brake lines. I may still fix it but since I know the issue with the callipers, I don’t see an urgent need to at the moment.

The RCS19. Yet to be fitted.
The RCS19. Yet to be fitted.

I have also swapped back the convertibars to the original clip ons as I found the position of the convertibars kind of neither here or there. The back aches are back, but this lower position is better in the corners.

Chinese Fairings

In order to try again to find a more comfortable riding position, I have ordered a set of Chinese made fairings for the bike as well as the headlight/front cowl bracket. The idea is to trim the cowl plastic from the end to where the wing mirror starts. I initially thought of doing the streetfighter thing, but the K1/K2 with the silver frame and engine really doesn’t make a very nice looking streetfighter. Then I came across this youtube video of a nicely done K1 handlebar conversion. So I thought that trimming the fairing may be the way to go.

I did not want to do that on the original fairings and bracket and so ordered the Chinese one instead. I chose the ABS version.

My initial impression was quite favourable. The plastic is about the same thickness as the originals and has the same flex and basically the same feel. It does not feel cheap or brittle. The colour scheme is a bit off. For example the lower greenish/blue colour was the incorrect shade. The mounting points seem good, however there were some holes on the side fairings that are not really circular, so I don’t know how well that will fit. However, for $180 (excluding shipping), I really cannot complain.

Colour shade is probably a bit off and the positioning of the graphics probably off too.
Colour shade is probably a bit off and the positioning of the graphics probably not exactly right.

Front Cowl

The "Suzuki" is positioned at the wrong place. It should be just above the tail light facing the rear.
The “Suzuki” is positioned at the wrong place. It should be just above the tail light facing the rear.

The bracket seems well made but the “fingers” extending to and holding up the wing mirrors as well as the upper section of the cowl / windscreen is a bit off (narrower than the cowl. It should not be much of a problem it looks as if a bit of bending will solve the issue.

Headlight and Cowl Bracket

The conversion will come later. For now, I am have prepared the items and will get to it when I have the time or when my back really can’t take it anymore.


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